Raptor getting hot, supposedly. Mechs on here?

[Fogie]

Says she is overheating when pulling the trailer in hot weather...needle climbs when pulling grades and drops immediately when RPM does.
Actually lit up the screen last weekend, engineer screen showed 130*C...266*F. No coolant loss or outward sign of overheat, was running strong and fine.
At idle, gauge read a normal temp but engineer screen shows 103*C...215*F. A digi therm pointed at water neck/thermostat housing/top hose reads 183*F....a 34*F difference. 195* stat should equal roughly 88*C
Is the neck and digi thermometer a decent way of reading a rough temp?...Cylinder Head Temp sensor issue?

 

[MAC702]

What you are calling a "digi thermometer" is using infrared to get a RELATIVE surface temperature. Unless calibrated to the exact surface, it's best used for comparison temps and not actually using the number on the screen as the actual temp of the surface. And that's assuming the surface is going to accurately reflect the temperature of the water inside without losses. I would never use an infrared thermometer to check the accuracy of a probe, which is always the best way to get a temp.

Did you get a difference in your dash display when you turned off the A/C on the hill?

 

[Fogie]

What you are calling a "digi thermometer" is using infrared to get a RELATIVE surface temperature. Unless calibrated to the exact surface, it's best used for comparison temps and not actually using the number on the screen as the actual temp of the surface. And that's assuming the surface is going to accurately reflect the temperature of the water inside without losses. I would never use an infrared thermometer to check the accuracy of a probe, which is always the best way to get a temp.

Did you get a difference in your dash display when you turned off the A/C on the hill?

It will pull the same stuff to a much lesser degree even in Winter, again while pulling higher RPM on a grade towing. The truck never runs higher RPM while not towing. I let it rev down the road in a lower gear without the trailer hooked up and the needle doesn't move. Tranny temps are a touch below "normal", has an aftermarket cooler. Have replaced all the usual suspects concerning cooling issues, passed a head gasket test....stumped. Trying to figure out before committing it to a shop on Tuesday.

 

[Harley]

Sensor or maybe water pump threw a blade

 

[Harley]

Also, never trust the needle on the dash. Its more like an idiot light. Just meant to give you an idea. I have an aftermarket system that monitors everything in my truck and its never the same as what the needle shows.

Get an accurate reading. Temp sensors are cheap. Might be worth it to ya to just throw a new one in for gits and shiggles and see what it does. Or look up the testing procedures for it. Id suspect that before anything else.

 

[Fogie]

Also, never trust the needle on the dash. Its more like an idiot light. Just meant to give you an idea. I have an aftermarket system that monitors everything in my truck and its never the same as what the needle shows.

Get an accurate reading. Temp sensors are cheap. Might be worth it to ya to just throw a new one in for gits and shiggles and see what it does. Or look up the testing procedures for it. Id suspect that before anything else.

Thought the same about the pump, replaced although it looked fine.
I would have replaced the sensor already but it is under the intake manifold on a 6.2, so a bit of a job. Prepared for Ford jokes.
My buddy put the Ford laptop on it and the truck said all ok, he said we may have to hook up the trailer and the laptop and go for a ride.

 

[Harley]

Thought the same about the pump, replaced although it looked fine.
I would have replaced the sensor already but it is under the intake manifold on a 6.2, so a bit of a job. Prepared for Ford jokes.
My buddy put the Ford laptop on it and the truck said all ok, he said we may have to hook up the trailer and the laptop and go for a ride.

A big enough hammer will pop the intake off in no time!

I’ll refrain from the Ford jokes. No point in kickin a man when he’s down.

Do those use step motors for the gauges? That might be the culprit if the computer is showing everything fine.

 

[Fogie]

A big enough hammer will pop the intake off in no time!

I’ll refrain from the Ford jokes. No point in kickin a man when he’s down.

Do those use step motors for the gauges? That might be the culprit if the computer is showing everything fine.

It has a temp gauge and a digital temp in what they call the engineer's diagnosis screen or something to that effect, have to bring it up on the truck's dash screen/display. The dash lit up "engine temp overheat" last weekend, so pulled up the diagnostic in the dash and it read 130*C or 266*F. The truck didn't seem that hot to me when I opened the hood..no burbling or ticking, but who knows cause it was hotter than heck beside the I15. The same diagnostic checks the dash gauges while scrolling through it and ok.

 

[Kinoons]

I opened this expecting a thread on computer games and mechwarrior. I was wrong.

 

[Harley]

I opened this expecting a thread on computer games and mechwarrior. I was wrong.

Naw, this is man stuff!

 

[Fogie]

Years ago a rat got into the truck up at Mt Charleston and he ate some wires that run under the intake to knock sensors and the Cylinder Head Temperature sensor...the latter passes for an ECT sensor nowadays and it is inaccessible without pulling the alternator, fuel rail, intake and etc.
Took it to Friendly Ford under warranty not knowing what had happened. Rodent chewing isn't covered of course, so paid $800 something for a new harness installed.
It turns out after me tearing the truck apart tonight, that they didn't replace the harness...they did some splicing of wires.
Having a hard time finding a replacement harness, sumbeech.

 

[Harley]

Years ago a rat got into the truck up at Mt Charleston and he ate some wires that run under the intake to knock sensors and the Cylinder Head Temperature sensor...the latter passes for an ECT sensor nowadays and it is inaccessible without pulling the alternator, fuel rail, intake and etc.
Took it to Friendly Ford under warranty not knowing what had happened. Rodent chewing isn't covered of course, so paid $800 something for a new harness installed.
It turns out after me tearing the truck apart tonight, that they didn't replace the harness...they did some splicing of wires.
Having a hard time finding a replacement harness, sumbeech.

In other words, some incompetent tithead was the cause. Go figure!

 

[Fogie]

In other words, some incompetent tithead was the cause. Go figure!

Hoping that fixing it right will fix the truck right...would be a big coincidence if a truck that thinks it is overheating while I think it isn't wouldn't have something to do with that "fix"
Let the thing idle for nearly an hour today, couldn't find a thing on the motor beside exhaust that was running more than 185* when the dash indicates 217*, the 195* thermostat is opening at what the truck says is 225*...started ripping it up.

 

[Tozan]

It will pull the same stuff to a much lesser degree even in Winter, again while pulling higher RPM on a grade towing. The truck never runs higher RPM while not towing. I let it rev down the road in a lower gear without the trailer hooked up and the needle doesn't move. Tranny temps are a touch below "normal", has an aftermarket cooler. Have replaced all the usual suspects concerning cooling issues, passed a head gasket test....stumped. Trying to figure out before committing it to a shop on Tuesday.

Where is the Trans cooler mounted If mounted too close or against the A/C Condenser it may be reducing the airflow too much causing the radiator to not get enough air flow....

Try running without the trans cooler or try moving the trans cooler a few inches away from the A/C condenser. With a couple inches space between condenser and trans cooler it will be able to pull more air through the radiator.

 

[MAC702]

I recently repaired a vehicle that had the A/C starting to blow warm, but only when the vehicle wasn't moving, so it took a while to notice the pattern. It has two electric fans. The driver side was controlled by the engine thermostat, and the passenger side was controlled by the A/C; the latter had failed. I ordered a new assembly off Amazon, and replaced it, and all was good again. While waiting for the part, you just shut off the A/C if going to be stopped for more than a couple minutes.

 

[Briket]

I had the same exact problem 2 years ago. I have an f150 too, just not a fancy one like yours.
Mine would be fine all year long until summer time. The temp gauge would jump up past halfway all the time if I wasn’t moving, when driving it was fine. When I’d tow anything summer or winter the gauge would jump up past halfway as soon as I stopped moving. Drove me nuts for a year because computer said everything was good when I scanned it.
Then it dawned on me, I obviously have a problem, but no sensor is picking it up….. hmm… dough, it’s a part that has no sensor.
Problem ended up being a clogged/restricted radiator. I had to rebuild the entire dam cooling system to finally figure it out. Thermostat, fan clutch, all hoses, and finally the dam radiator. Luckily parts are plentiful and inexpensive
Easy way to tell is to take temp readings after driving for 10 miles or so, get the top, middle, and bottom of the radiator. Temps should be within 20 degrees of each other. If there not then bingo you have a clogged/restricted radiator. You could try unclogging it but I figured why bother, There easy to replace and around $250 for OEM, and mine was 8 years old at the time, and while your in there do the hoses and thermostat, it’s only an extra $25 or so.
Moral of the story, if you get your oil changed at one of these quick drain and go type places, don’t let them mix anti freeze coolants, only use the orange stuff. Idiots will say “it’s all the same”, bull****. Mine had a combination of orange, green and red, looked like it was bleeding a rainbow slushy. I just do my own oil changes now too after that.It already sounds like your getting different temperature readings in the stuff you have checked.
I’m no expert but if I had to put money on it I’d say you probably have the same issue.

 

[Fogie]

Did in order..thermostat, radiator, water pump, fan assembly, laptop and head/block test
Will idle and drive all day long no issues, pulling the trailer on grades where higher than normal temps would be expected, thats when problem manifests.

 

[Mikeee54]

https://www.f150forum.com/f70/ecoboost-overheating-288128/

Interesting read..

 

[Fogie]

https://www.f150forum.com/f70/ecoboost-overheating-288128/

Interesting read..

yep...overheat issues with the turbo-tiny motor trucks are legion on the web, not much that would indicate anything endemic with the 6.2 V8. Mine is just an SVT performance version of the same Boss 6.2 V8 that had been Ford's HD motor for years, uses all the same proven cooling parts.
The trans cooler mentioned is indeed the one I put in, a factory part that installs in the factory location...it's just bigger, the one that Ford puts on for export to the Middle East.

 

[Mikeee54]

When I first read your post I almost posted about burping air from cooling system but decided not to.....i chased this problem on one of my vehicles for about six months...finally got it done after multiple attempts/hacks..