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Class C RV - Good, bad or ugly?
- Thread starter Cirdan
- Start date
We bought a new Lazy Daze in 2005, still have it, no problems. Many RV's look good "skin deep" but have marginal workmanship under that good looking interior. A friend had a Winnebago and had to remove the microwave. Wiring behind that was a rat's nest jumble of wires with nothing labeled. In my LD, wiring behind the microwave (or anywhere you look, is clean runs and fastened straight or at right angles etc. When they do good work in places most don't look, that tells you something. Perfect . . . no, they are slow to change and set in their ways. I replaced most lighting with LEDs, when in 2005 they should have done that.
I own both, a Class C and a Class A. I am happy with both of mine, but I did some work on each to make them the way I want. Mostly electrical stuff, such as adding a lith house battery, smartshunts, DC2DCC so I can run several KWs of stuff without using the generator. That includes such work on my new 2022 Class A, which you may read about here and perhaps you will want to join the forum there to get countless other opinions.
If it's going to be your first RV, do NOT spend a lot of cash on it. Buy used. Then later you will know what you really want. Assume you will not keep your first RV for long.
Class C's feel like a van when you drive them, but a class A is really easier to drive because you see everything. On a class C, you have several feet above you in the front that you cannot see and must remember.
Class A's have MUCH more storage space. But often Class C's can sleep more people. But there are exceptions.
The quality between brands makes little difference. Two people can buy the same year and model RV on the same day, even new, and one be a piece of junk and the other perfect. Each one is built by different people. It's not the normal assembly line as for cars.
It is a good idea to hire an RV inspector.
-Don- Reno, NV
If it's going to be your first RV, do NOT spend a lot of cash on it. Buy used. Then later you will know what you really want. Assume you will not keep your first RV for long.
Class C's feel like a van when you drive them, but a class A is really easier to drive because you see everything. On a class C, you have several feet above you in the front that you cannot see and must remember.
Class A's have MUCH more storage space. But often Class C's can sleep more people. But there are exceptions.
The quality between brands makes little difference. Two people can buy the same year and model RV on the same day, even new, and one be a piece of junk and the other perfect. Each one is built by different people. It's not the normal assembly line as for cars.
It is a good idea to hire an RV inspector.
-Don- Reno, NV
That is the norm for RVs. Each one can have different color wires and such for the same runs and they are always messy where you cannot normally see with wires all over. My new 2022 165K$ Class A is NO exception. In fact, I expect such as I understand how they are built. It's kinda like anything goes where you cannot normally see.
The truck section (Ford, Chevy etc) will be as good as usual with an RV. But the house part is another story. AFAIK, there are NONE that are neat with house wiring, it's just the very messy wiring is located where you don't normally look.
It looks like I wired them all.
Here is some of the work I did on my new RV, to add MUCH better house power for the times I don't want to run the genny when boondocked.
My work is probably a little neater than the professionals did--which is NOT saying much at all.
-Don- Reno, NV
The truck section (Ford, Chevy etc) will be as good as usual with an RV. But the house part is another story. AFAIK, there are NONE that are neat with house wiring, it's just the very messy wiring is located where you don't normally look.
It looks like I wired them all.
Here is some of the work I did on my new RV, to add MUCH better house power for the times I don't want to run the genny when boondocked.My work is probably a little neater than the professionals did--which is NOT saying much at all.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Don't own them. But many friends with them. Electrical issue always comes up. Just do to going on improved roads so a lot of moving parts. Other one is understanding the connections from the honey suckers. Some places that you purchase from gives you a annual pass to places or you can purchase it. Also traveling with it knowing what routes to take if you are doing cross country but with new generation there is also an app for that to be safe.
Have you looked at a few? With any brand, one can be neat and the next messy. Different people are building the same models with no real plan on most of the house wiring. If they are all done the same way and neat, that would really be surprising.
I assume you know Lazy Daze is now out of business.
-Don- Reno, NV
I assume you know Lazy Daze is now out of business.
-Don- Reno, NV
No, I used to frequent the owner's group, but haven't for a good while, and didn't know they finally closed. LD was always a relatively small operation, family run, with a business model few used - direct sales only, at the time. It was an assembly line, so the same people did each job, and they were more than loath to accommodate any special request changes. Other pictures and posts support the contention that all the wiring, not just mine . . . and most everything else, was done in a workmanlike manner (within reason). LD was one of the few RVs that had adequate tankage capacity for boondocking. My 26' holds 55 gallons of fresh water and we almost never stop at organized campgrounds with hookups.
Sometimes it is more complicated than that, even for one person.
For an example, there are places where I may want to stop for the night, but I don't want to put out my slides and make it obvious I am staying there for a while. Such as in the southeast where they do NOT allow overnight stops in rest stop (includes Florida). My Class A is good to sleep 8 people in four beds. But I can only use ONE of the four possible beds without my slides out. And that one bed is an option. I have a bed that comes down from on top of the cab seats by a press of a button. It is the ONLY bed I can use without my slides out.
About options, keep that in mind when you find the same model RV at two different prices. My new Class A has every option possible, which is not always good. It reduces the load capacity as it increases the price.
My new motorhome can be found for 25K$ cheaper. But will not have the above bed, the double door large refrigerator, tankless water heater, three TVs, and a lot of small stuff, such as extra pop-out AC/USB outlets and other stuff.
BTW, I purchased three RVs in my life and all of them had a tire problem of some type. In fact, four tire issues in three RVs. One thing I strongly recommend is to bring a tire gauge with you and also find the sticker inside the RV for the tire PSI. DO NOT listen to a salesman!
1. My first RV from a used RV dealer. Less than 30 lbs in all six wheels (should be 80 psi).
2. 2nd RV. Bad rubber tire stem on front right tire. Had 15 lbs in that tire (should also be 80 psi).
3. New 2022 RV. One of the rear tires could not me measured. The extender on the inner tire wasn't letting air in or out.
4. New 2022 RV. Sticker says 82 psi max in all tires at the full load capacity. Every tire had 105 PSI in them, as the same but much larger and heavier model should have with the same tire. They see the same tire and think it should be filled the same. They don't read the stickers, so you have to do it.
Don't even drive it off the lot without checking the sticker and tires. Regardless if buying new or used. So bring a tire gauge and if it has rubber stems, check those carefully. BTW, I think only Class C's and lighter will have rubber stems on the tires. Class A's use RV tires--more like a truck tire and are not made so cheaply with a rubber stem.
-Don- Reno, NV
For an example, there are places where I may want to stop for the night, but I don't want to put out my slides and make it obvious I am staying there for a while. Such as in the southeast where they do NOT allow overnight stops in rest stop (includes Florida). My Class A is good to sleep 8 people in four beds. But I can only use ONE of the four possible beds without my slides out. And that one bed is an option. I have a bed that comes down from on top of the cab seats by a press of a button. It is the ONLY bed I can use without my slides out.
About options, keep that in mind when you find the same model RV at two different prices. My new Class A has every option possible, which is not always good. It reduces the load capacity as it increases the price.
My new motorhome can be found for 25K$ cheaper. But will not have the above bed, the double door large refrigerator, tankless water heater, three TVs, and a lot of small stuff, such as extra pop-out AC/USB outlets and other stuff.
BTW, I purchased three RVs in my life and all of them had a tire problem of some type. In fact, four tire issues in three RVs. One thing I strongly recommend is to bring a tire gauge with you and also find the sticker inside the RV for the tire PSI. DO NOT listen to a salesman!
1. My first RV from a used RV dealer. Less than 30 lbs in all six wheels (should be 80 psi).
2. 2nd RV. Bad rubber tire stem on front right tire. Had 15 lbs in that tire (should also be 80 psi).
3. New 2022 RV. One of the rear tires could not me measured. The extender on the inner tire wasn't letting air in or out.
4. New 2022 RV. Sticker says 82 psi max in all tires at the full load capacity. Every tire had 105 PSI in them, as the same but much larger and heavier model should have with the same tire. They see the same tire and think it should be filled the same. They don't read the stickers, so you have to do it.
Don't even drive it off the lot without checking the sticker and tires. Regardless if buying new or used. So bring a tire gauge and if it has rubber stems, check those carefully. BTW, I think only Class C's and lighter will have rubber stems on the tires. Class A's use RV tires--more like a truck tire and are not made so cheaply with a rubber stem.
-Don- Reno, NV
That, and Lazy Daze refused to do slide outs. The floor plans were instead all optimized for use without slide outs. A friend had a "Big Foot" with slide for the couch area that doubled as a bedroom with the couch unfolded. Without the slide extended, it was a hassle to move around in. When folded up for the couch and the slide out, all it netted was a bunch of essentially useless open space in front of the couch. Also, unlike the Lazy Daze, that has relatively shallow outside storage compartments, the Big Foot had a full basement with some compartments going full width of the vehicle under the living space floor, so the vehicle height was considerably more than the LD. We traded off driving the two RV's on one trip. The LD handled far better than the BF, better acceleration, much better steering without the constant corrections the BF required. Just better all around. He sold it.
you got me curious about Lazy Daze so I did a search it appears they are out of business: https://www.rvtravel.com/end-line-lazy-daze-kind-rv-builder-rvt-1062b/
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Dang. I really liked that they did plans with no slideouts. Everyone I know eventually has problems with them, or has to constantly endure the hassles of trying to do something without the time to slide them out. I did an electrical repair in one RV and couldn't access the panel inside without first powering out the slide out. What a piece of crap.
Just pure coincidence, of course, that the end of such a well-respected company was after the political response to covid shut them and their supply chain down.
Just pure coincidence, of course, that the end of such a well-respected company was after the political response to covid shut them and their supply chain down.
Yeah, some of the RVs with slideouts I won't even look at. In my new Class A it has plenty of room for every thing needed with the slides in. The kitchen simply has more space with the slide out and then two more beds can be used. The rear has a king bed where the slide must be out. But it is easy to cook or use the john and such with the slides in.
It has the new Ford 7.3 V-8 engine which is decent. F-53 frame. Six speed auto tranny. I didn't care for the small V-10 that was used in countless RVs from before then.
Mine drives very well, better than my Class C. It's fun to drive with the large windows up nice and high. Great views as I am driving.
I keep the Class C to go to more dumpy places or where I need it to be shorter. It's only 25 feet long. My Class A is 30 feet long.
There are some that still try to stay away from slideouts as well as those who will only buy an RV with slideouts. One of the many reasons to buy used first, to be sure of what one wants later.
-Don- Reno, NV
It has the new Ford 7.3 V-8 engine which is decent. F-53 frame. Six speed auto tranny. I didn't care for the small V-10 that was used in countless RVs from before then.
Mine drives very well, better than my Class C. It's fun to drive with the large windows up nice and high. Great views as I am driving.
I keep the Class C to go to more dumpy places or where I need it to be shorter. It's only 25 feet long. My Class A is 30 feet long.
There are some that still try to stay away from slideouts as well as those who will only buy an RV with slideouts. One of the many reasons to buy used first, to be sure of what one wants later.
-Don- Reno, NV
I imagine those coincidences happened all across the country to small companies, and some large. Having grown a small startup company from just me and a helper to 25 employees, I can tell you the first five years are a financial struggle, with most all the profit going right back into the company. Even that is not often enough to supply a companies growth needs. Take away sick workers and materials for product, the strangulation won't take long. Hardly any would have the financial resources to weather that . . . heck, we were often struggling to make payroll in those early years.
They have been improved a lot over the years. And people need to know how to use them. Such as be as level as possible and open the doors and windows when the slideouts are moved. They push a lot of air.
Most of the newer RVs will level themselves with a push of a button.
But as with anything, the more stuff you have the more stuff there is to break.
-Don- Reno, NV
Most of the newer RVs will level themselves with a push of a button.
But as with anything, the more stuff you have the more stuff there is to break.
-Don- Reno, NV
I was lucky to get a generator with my new RV. I purchased my RV last September. They were selling many other RVs with no genny because Onan couldn't buy a ten cent part for the control board during the COVID thing and Onan would not release any gennys that were not completed.
So the agreement was to bring back the RV to the dealer to let them install the gennies when they receive them. I think they were all the 4K genny's. My RV is the 50-amp so it came with the 5.5KW genny.
BTW, did you know the difference between 30-amp RV service and 50-amp RV service at an RV park is a difference of 70 amps?
30-amp only uses one hot line. One hot, neutral and ground at the outlet.
50-amp uses two lines, 50 amps each hot line of the 120 VAC, or 50 amps total at the unused 240 VAC. The 240 VAC is normally not used anywhere in RVs. They use the 120 VAC only (in most cases by far, very rare exceptions). But 12KW available either way with the so-called 50 amp RV service.
30-amp service is only 3,600 watts total as it only has one hot and the neutral. So there is a large difference between the two. My new RV is the 50-amp. It has two A/C units and much more that can be ran at the same time on the so-called 50 amp service of 100 amps total in two lines.
-Don- Reno, NV
So the agreement was to bring back the RV to the dealer to let them install the gennies when they receive them. I think they were all the 4K genny's. My RV is the 50-amp so it came with the 5.5KW genny.
BTW, did you know the difference between 30-amp RV service and 50-amp RV service at an RV park is a difference of 70 amps?
30-amp only uses one hot line. One hot, neutral and ground at the outlet.
50-amp uses two lines, 50 amps each hot line of the 120 VAC, or 50 amps total at the unused 240 VAC. The 240 VAC is normally not used anywhere in RVs. They use the 120 VAC only (in most cases by far, very rare exceptions). But 12KW available either way with the so-called 50 amp RV service.
30-amp service is only 3,600 watts total as it only has one hot and the neutral. So there is a large difference between the two. My new RV is the 50-amp. It has two A/C units and much more that can be ran at the same time on the so-called 50 amp service of 100 amps total in two lines.
-Don- Reno, NV
Yup, owning an alarm co. in CA, the Electrical Union pressured the government to require us to have an electrician's license to install and maintain smoke detectors. So, I got my C-10 license . . . I wouldn't want to live in a house I wired, but otherwise I know what I'm doing.
Sounds like a nice big rig you have there. My little 26.5 foot LD is set up a lot different. 400 watts of solar on the roof, 3KW inverter/charger, 470 AH of battery capacity between two battery banks, so I can run anything on board, including the microwave (but excepting the air conditioner), without running the generator. To make up for that, as we almost never "plug in" to use AC, we have a TurboCool (aka swamp cooler) on the roof. That way it takes very little energy to keep the rig cool. It's pretty much ideal for how we use it.
Sounds like a nice big rig you have there. My little 26.5 foot LD is set up a lot different. 400 watts of solar on the roof, 3KW inverter/charger, 470 AH of battery capacity between two battery banks, so I can run anything on board, including the microwave (but excepting the air conditioner), without running the generator. To make up for that, as we almost never "plug in" to use AC, we have a TurboCool (aka swamp cooler) on the roof. That way it takes very little energy to keep the rig cool. It's pretty much ideal for how we use it.