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suggestions on lubing 223 brass before resizing.

my "mentor" uses Lee resizing lube which seems fine. first uses a bristle brush and, puts a bit on the inside of the neck of each (he uses the bristle brush to both clean and, lube the inside of the neck, per him. I've also seen this done on youtube) then puts a bit in a Tupperware container with about 20 cases at a time (hand full) shakes them up. seems to work for him. I've never seen him get a case stuck or, have a misfire.
I'm planning to employ this method since I've seen it work well. just wondering what you all do. maybe I'll get a better and/or, faster idea.


Well-known member
Forum Supporter
I use Hornady Unique case lube, which I believe is nothing but mink oil. Rub lube between thumb and forefinger and roll case between fingers on the way out of the bucket on to the shellplate. A tub lasts me around 5k rounds.


pew pew fan
Forum Supporter
I have an almost full bottle of 15% lanolin oil and alcohol mixture that I will not use anymore, if you want it you can have it to try out. you put your brass, (it doesn't matter how many) in a container squirt 2 or 3 of the mixture, more squirts from the bottle if you have a lot of brass then you just shake your container or use your hands to move the brass around to get coated. let it sit for about 10 minutes to let the alcohol evaporate then start resizing. After resizing and trimming wash your brass with hot water to remove the oil film.

if the mixture is too much for you, you can dilute it with more 99% alcohol. most say it should be a 12 to 1 ratio.

been using this method for a couple of years now, and never had any stuck case using lee, hornady and Dillon dies.
I exclusively use LEE presses (classic, turret and loadmaster) for reloading with the exceptions for bullet swaging and cast bullet sizing. When I first started reloading, I used LEE resizing lube. I never liked how this lube dried and had to be wiped off of the brass. Many years ago, I changed to RCBS Case Lube-2. I use this in conjunction with a RCBS lube pad. I still wipe my brass after resizing, but do not have that dry gunk. It is all about personal preference; the lube pad is simple and reliable.
If I'm loading on a single stage I use imperial wax for everything. I'm I'm loading on the progressive I use Dillon case lube which is nothing more than lanolin and alcohol like one of the others posters uses. I throw the brass in a gallon ziplock bag, spray liberally inside the bag, shake, let sit for a couple min and load them in the case feeder.


uber n00b
I can tell what has worked for me for over 45 years:
RCBS lube pad and RCBS case lube.
I run my bottleneck cases LIGHTLY over the pad, not getting any lube on the neck. I have never stuck a case and never needed lube on neck, inside or out. Since so many do, I have no idea what is different from my way and their way.


Obsessed Member
I use Dillon pump bottle lube but make sure to let the alcohol dry first or you will get a case jammed in your die, I use Imperial sizing wax for my .50 bmg cases and forming wildcat cases.


"Ho'old on there"
Staff member
I wet tumble, let cases dry, put in a 1 gallon ziplock bag and spray with Hornady 1 Shot Case lube. No need to wipe off afterwards.