10/22 Feeding Issues

#1
I looked on the Ruger forum, and various other rimfire sources and can't find an answer to my question.

I've had a Ruger 10/22 for about 3 years. It's a plain Jane with a wood stock, no crazy modifications. I only have the one 10 rounder rotary mag that came with it.

On my last rabbit hunting experience, my friend (who was using it as a loaner) noticed that the bolt wouldn't chamber a round from the magazine. It still fires if I put a round directly in the chamber, thus making it a single shot.

I disassembled the rifle completely down to the barreled receiver, and cleaned out the chamber with a bronze chamber brush in .22

The rifle still has the same feeding issue, so I disassembled and cleaned the magazine and noticed that the magazine has the feed ramp on it. The round gets 3/4 of the way in and then binds. It bends the casing so it won't chamber and I have to pull hard on the charging handle to get it to eject.

Anyone ever had an issue like this before?
-Linny
 

JohnnyK

"My name is NOT Johnny!"
Forum Supporter
#2
My 10/22 will cycle any ammo I feed it EXCEPT Remington Golden Bullets.

The "lips" on the 10/22 mags are subject to wear and deformation.

Ruger OEM mags for the 10/22 are reasonably priced and available virtually everywhere. try a different mag...
 

Mooman76

Obsessed Member
#3
You didn't say what kind of ammo or if it's any ammo. Mine doesn't like certain kinds of ammo but been a long time since I shot it so I don't remember exactly what. The regular 22s (Standard velocity, round nose) shot fine and it didn't like non factory mags as well but just occasional jams with those.
 
#5
I have another magazine at the shop I'm going to try, and unfortunately my ammo is just a big collection of bulk random ammo thrown into an ammo box. I think it's Remington Gold Dot 36gr, but it still should be able to handle it.
 
#6
Update 7/7/2016

Tried butler creek magazine, same result of can't finish chambering the round. Gonna try an even deeper clean
 

Fogie

Swimming Pool Monkey
Forum Supporter
#7
My 1022 has always been good and my mag is 1980s and never even been cleaned. But, I would try another Ruger mag myself.
You might try the big rimfire site. There are millions of .22 maniacs on there.
 

28kfps

Very Active Member
#8
I have the same rifle as you descried wooden stock and all. I do have better luck not using bulk ammo. Most feeding problems often are due to a worn magazine.
 

NYECOGunsmith

Obsessed Member
Staff member
Moderator
#9
When you deep cleaned it, did you clean out the extractor groove in the barrel?Tough to do without removing the barrel from the receiver.

Do that, clean that groove thoroughly, and take the bolt out , clean and check the extractor and its spring for cracks, breaks, crud, etc.

Reassemble, lube properly, use a good magazine, odds are it will function after that.

If not, a new recoil spring may be in order.

With most semi auto , magazine fed .22's, this problem is usually caused by either a bad magazine, crud in the extractor groove, crud under the extractor, a broken and binding extractor, or ammo, with the last item on the list usually being that recoil spring. They do go bad, or sometimes they get kinked.

But if it starts in a gun that used to feed pretty much any type of ammo, then the magazine and the crud in the extractor groove are your first two best bets.

Now you are wondering why it would work (chamber and fire) if you load the round directly into the chamber, but it won't when you try to load it from the magazine.

Well, if there is crud in the extractor groove, or under the extractor so that it is held high and rubs along the receiver wall, or the magazine feed ramp and lips are bad, or the recoil spring is marginal, anything that adds friction slows down the bolt and can bring it to a stop before it fully chambers a round.

When you drop the round into the chamber , you eliminate some friction (maybe not the source that is causing the bind up, but some friction none the less) and the recoil spring is able to do it's job and fully seat the bolt into battery.

Kinda like trying to get a car to 200 MPH, you have to have so much horsepower in relation to the car's weight to get it there, if it won't do 200, you either add horsepower or you remove weight, and if you remove weight, it doesn't really matter where on the car you remove it from (putting aside the required traction to the driving wheel(s) of course!) .

Have too much friction in the action, remove some, not necessarily from the right spot , but it works again. Trick is to find the real culprit when it comes to friction, as that friction also leads to timing issues with their attendant (different) symptoms , and those are just as much fun to try and diagnose.
 
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SUBMOA

Harley Builder
#10
I took the new 10/22 (never fired) out the other day for the first time. It's totally box stock. Nothing fancy. I took a box of 22 bullets I've collecting for years. There were at least 6 different kinds of bullets, including Rem Golden bullets. Some of them were at least 20 years old. There wasn't one bullet that wouldn't cycle. Every one shot fine. Seems some are more picky than others.
 

OTR

uber n00b
#11
Old dirty magazine. disassemble it and clean it. The rotary springs don't like being left loaded I was told. Did you do that?

Buy a new magazine,clean the old one, and report back.
 

NYECOGunsmith

Obsessed Member
Staff member
Moderator
#12
Torsion springs don't take a set after the initial one, so leaving this type of magazine loaded won't compromise the spring's power.

Same holds true for magazines powered by compression springs (1911, AK, AR, etc. type magazines).

Flat springs (AKA Leaf Springs and "V" Springs depending on the shape and number of bends) , like those found in the attached magazine of a SKS, Mosin Nagant 91/30, Mauser, etc. WILL most definitely suffer from being left compressed for long periods of time.
Same for those types of springs used as the mainspring to power a firearms hammer or trigger mechanism.

Flat/Leaf/V springs usually break within a few cycles after being left compressed for long periods, and they generally always break at the bend or pivot point of the spring.

But the magazine being dirty will definitely affect the gun's feed cycle, so if it's not clean , clean it, don't oil it ( a light sheen of oil on the torsion spring is the only place you want lubrication on these 10/22 magazines, otherwise they gum up pretty fast) and give it a try.
 
#13
Feeding problems with the 10/22 usually, in my experience, comes from three causes....bad magazine, bad ammo, or dirty feed ramp. Often, people shooting the lead bullets will get a wax build up on the ramp that can cause stove pipes. Bad magazines can be due to the spring, or more often, due to "chatter" marks on the magazine's lips. Always buy steel lips magazines. Finallly, some ammo just sucks in some 10/22s.

Jim
 

JimBianchi

Daddy
Forum Supporter
#14
This morning I was shooting my race gun and all was well, until it wasn't.

Multiple failure to extract and FTF.

Apparently, some 22 Longs got mixed in with my box of strays. Any stray 22 ammo that I find laying around get tossed into the same little plastic box.

I finally remembered to take the box out to my spot.

Must have been 100rds of mixed ammo, mostly federal jacketed. (CCI Standard is my go to ammo, but I have shot 12,000 so far this year and some of it is forgettable)

Somewhere I picked up 20 or so 22 Longs.

Oh, sure they fed and fired, but that's it. (Accurate also!)

Momentary panic, glad it was easy to fix!
 
#15
Barrel removed, everything cleaned. Round sits in chamber and won't bind.

Upon further inspection of bolt, top extractor seems stiff. Bolt guide rod also bent slightly at tip.

I'm thinking extractor grabs round wrong and bent guider of feeds incorrectly?
 

NYECOGunsmith

Obsessed Member
Staff member
Moderator
#16
Extractor should be fairly stiff, but not bound up.
Spray it and its recess, plunger and spring with some kind of solvent, Brake Cleaner , Crud Cutter, Blast Out, etc. then put a single drop of gun oil on it and try it again.

The Extractor alone is about $2 from Midway, or go with an aftermarket one with an improved angle and new spring package for about $10-$15 depending on who makes it.

The Spring alone is about $2, unless you go for an aftermarket extra power one, those are around $4, and the plunger alone is $2 for a factory one, don't know that I have ever seen an aftermarket or "improved" plunger from anyone.

The bent guide rod could cause problems , replacing it won't hurt and they are not expensive, you can get the guide rod, the spring, and the factory bolt handle all assembled for about $10.

Midway USA carries them, as does Brownells.