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Old 09-28-2012, 08:04 PM   #1
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Default How to install a Rossi 92 spring kit

I wanted to slick up my Rossi 92, so I picked up a spring kit. It lightens up the trigger and makes the action very fast and smooth. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet, but I'll report back with the results/review soon. Just dry firing with some snap caps I've noticed that it feels much better now, and the snap caps don't fly across the room anymore, they drop right at my feet.

The trigger is so light now that you can close the bolt and fire in one motion. The action used to be so stiff that it made my knuckles hurt, but now it barely requires any effort.



This is the spring kit from Brownells. It's $25 or $15 if you have a FFL + $5 shipping.





Tools needed: flathead screwdriver, a small pin punch, small hammer, cloth to put under the gun so the finish doesn't get scratched up.

Wear safety glasses. It's a good idea to wear glasses any time you're working with springs.



Unscrew the top bolt and take the stock off.





Take this small bolt out. This will allow you to remove the pin that connects the lever and bolt and holds them together.






Drive the pin out from the right side.








This is what the small bolt and pin look like.






Now pull the lever out from the bottom. Move the bolt a little bit to the rear to make it possible. Be careful not to lose any ejector parts from the bolt as you slide it back a little bit.





Now drive this pin out from the right side so that you can swap the small spring below this plunger.





New spring on the left.




Remove the rear bolt that holds the hammer and lower tang in place.

Pull the lower tang out from the back of the receiver. It's going to be stuck in there good, so just gently wiggle it as you pull.





Unscrew and remove factory trigger spring.




Old trigger spring on the left. New one on the right.




New trigger spring installed.






Now you will replace the ejector spring.

Old ejector spring on the left. New one on the right.




This part is a PITA! Stick a spent case onto the end of the bolt to hold the ejector in place. Don't use a live round, obviously. Now you have to push down on that little hoop to compress the spring around the ejector. Once it's compressed, tap the pin back into the bolt to hold everything in place. Don't remove the spent case. You will slide the bolt back into the gun and the spent case into the chamber. This is to hold the bolt together.




This is what it will look like when it's back together:




Now put the bolt back into the gun with the spent case still in it. Bring it all the way to battery. Then drive the pin back out from the right side so that you can connect the bolt to the lever again. Remember that you need to slide the bolt back a little bit in order to insert the lever.

Once the lever is in place, close the bolt completely, then drive the pin back in to hold them together.





You can now screw the little bolt back into the left side to cover the hole.




Install the new hammer spring. Compress the hammer spring with a pin so that it doesn't pop off.

New hammer spring on the right. Old one on the left.




Now slide the lower tang back into place.



Note that the hammer needs to be back. You can secure everything with the bolt now. The bolt holds the hammer and tang in place.



Once the lower tang is reinstalled, you can pull the pin out from the hammer spring.





Then you just need to reinstall the stock and you're good to go.
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Old 10-01-2012, 04:41 AM   #2
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Yes, it shoots very well. I took it out today and was able to shoot much faster than before.

I can't hit a damn thing when I shoot that fast, but it did function without issues.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:51 PM   #3
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Default ejector spring

is it neccessary to do a full take down just to replace the ejector spring?
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:17 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cedub69 View Post
is it neccessary to do a full take down just to replace the ejector spring?
Yeah pretty much. Most of the steps anyway.

The ejector was the hardest spring out of the four.

I'm going to be installing another spring kit tomorrow for my 24" octagon barrel M92. The one in these pics was my smaller 20" carbine. Actions are the same, but everything else is smaller on the carbine.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:37 PM   #5
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Marlin ejector springs are much easier. It's just a little leaf spring held in by the bolt. Remove the one lever pivot bolt and that's it.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:44 AM   #6
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Ahh...ok.. yeah i have the stainless 44mag w/ 20" barrel...its a really fun gun to shoot once ya realize ya gotta hold it tight otherwise it kicks like a mule..ive changed out the platic mag follower and removed the safety just have this last lil project until i get my hands on steves dvd for smoothing it out
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:58 AM   #7
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Yeah, the 20" is so light. It's great for carrying it around, or shooting off hand, but not so great for recoil.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:11 AM   #8
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Default pita

You aint joking that slide is a pain!!...i gave up for the night...was a lot to deburr and polish tho
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Old 10-05-2012, 03:19 AM   #9
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Got the spring kit installed on my 24" M92 today. It was a lot easier the second time around. That ejector spring wasn't such a PITA this time. Nobody was around to help me pin the hammer spring, so I used my mouth to insert the pin when I held the spring back with my hands

Also installed some nice lever wraps from cowboy45special.com. Should save my fingers.



Both actions feel smooth as butter now.
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Old 10-19-2012, 04:37 PM   #10
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Default spring

yeah i finally got mine back together after waiting for a damn pin.. bent one of mine.. where did you find the leather wrap?
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