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Old 11-04-2017, 06:24 AM   #31
ElkSlayer
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Originally from northern Michigan where I grew up chasing cottontails with beagles and using the mighty Ruger 10/22. Personally, I feel the .22lr is perfect for rabbits. If I was you, I would probably ditch the red dot and buy a cheap 3X rimfire scope. A magnified scope will make it easier to make the head shots you want. A BSA rimfire scope is probably around $35 and is plenty good enough. Using a rifle, I would also recommend solid nose, not hollowpoints. A rifle gets enough velocity to expand those hollowpoints which will waste more meat if you hit them in the body.
Yes, a shotgun does work on bunnies and I used a .410 from age 7 to ten. A 12 or 20ga works well, but I would go with #5 shot to limit the number of pellets hitting the rabbit. That being said, a 22lr is really the way to go. My 12 year old and I went out last weekend chasing bunnies. He used his TC Hot Shot .22lr and got one. I shot three with my Ruger Single Six .22lr revolver. As you will find out, rabbits in Nevada are not really pressured too much by hunters. We would jump a rabbit and most ran between 20 and 50 yards and then stopped next to some sagebrush. This would make a pretty easy shot with a scoped rifle. And hey, if you miss, you are out a nickel.

Jim
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Old 11-04-2017, 03:57 PM   #32
Dusty
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I have lots of rabbits around My house. After the first freeze I'm going to start popping them with My pellet riffle. Wish I had a 22 with a can on it.
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Old 11-05-2017, 05:41 AM   #33
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I know that you can't use lead ammo. Should I use copper plated rounds? I am going to CCSC tomorrow to have fun and also zero my red dot. I might get a scoop for it later but I always thought that with 22lr I am not gonno shoot anything further than 50 yards. Probably 20 to 30 yards most of the time.
BTW what range should I zero my red dot? 15, 25, or 50? I personally thought if I zero it on 50 than if I am shooting anything in between I just need to aim slightly higher. What do you think? I'll still zero on 25 probably thou since it's not a scope and shooting 50 yards with red dot can be a bit challenging.
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Old 11-08-2017, 11:50 PM   #34
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so a couple more questions from a beginner.

1st, so after i make my kill, gut the rabbit. Can i place it in a zip lock bag and put in my pouch, and continue on? how long do I have before I have to process the meat further? I've seen plenty of videos on guting and field dressing rabbits, but the videos always stop before they pack the rabbit away.


2nd The skins. since I'll be hunting rabbits in the winter, the skins should be nice, so I'd like to keep them. Is there a place to turn in to be cured? maybe a place to trade for cured skins? I'll teach myself to cure them later, but for now I don't mind letting somebody else do it, as long as the cost isn't too much.
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Old 11-09-2017, 12:50 AM   #35
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https://www.hideandfur.com

Rabbit hide/fur can be had for cheap. In fact, my goofy kid bought a couple at the "Renaissance Fair" (I know) the other day. $10 or so. It might be a fun project that could apply to bigger critters someday, but probably not cost effective to pay anyone to do it for you.

Once you have a rabbit gutted, they can keep for quite a while. It can vary, though. If intestine or stomach is compromised, they will turn much quicker. Temperature has a lot to do with it, of course.

I always gut them with the squeeze method, no knife, and inspect the liver/gut pile for tuleremia and cleanliness. If messy, cut the belly and rinse them with water. Then bag. Mildew will spoil them quicker than clean meat going rancid, so get them in a ice box fairly quick, especially if you rinse them.
Kill em in the chilly morning, in the box by 10:00?
Thanksgiving is the opener in the South, IMHO.
BTW. If no ticks or fleas upon inspection, no need to bag. Let the chilly air cool them in a bird vest.
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Old 11-09-2017, 01:03 AM   #36
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Most people I know toss the animal in their vest or bag, and clean them at the end of the day on the tailgate. Small game cools a lot faster than deer. I might clean in the field if there are tons of fleas.
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Old 11-09-2017, 01:08 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caboose View Post
I know that you can't use lead ammo. Should I use copper plated rounds? I am going to CCSC tomorrow to have fun and also zero my red dot. I might get a scoop for it later but I always thought that with 22lr I am not gonno shoot anything further than 50 yards. Probably 20 to 30 yards most of the time.
BTW what range should I zero my red dot? 15, 25, or 50? I personally thought if I zero it on 50 than if I am shooting anything in between I just need to aim slightly higher. What do you think? I'll still zero on 25 probably thou since it's not a scope and shooting 50 yards with red dot can be a bit challenging.
You can use lead everywhere, except in certain wildlife management areas, and while hunting waterfowl in all areas. Referring to shotguns, not your .22.
No rifles or pistols in those WMAs, either. Wayne E Kirch, Pahranaghat, Key Pittman etc.
Sight it in for 50 yards, and always put it on noggins.
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Old 11-09-2017, 01:10 AM   #38
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No reason not to gut them immediately, if you squeeze them. Takes about 10 seconds.
Also, you are talking about hunting them down here, I assume. No way would I keep intact rabbits in 55* heat all day. Not even if they are gutted. By all means, if good and chilly, no need to skin them until later. At home even.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4d1zP5eCQ5Y

Quail and chukar? Even more important that they are cleaned pronto. Gallinaceous birds turn, and quick. Within a couple of hours, in our Winter.
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Old 11-14-2017, 11:07 PM   #39
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As for shotguns 1 oz of #6 is the way to go. Does not matter if it is from a 12 ga or 20 ga. I prefer the 20 cuz its lighter to carry all day. When going for jacks with a shotgun I step up to 1 1/4 oz of #5. I shoot sk2 choke all the time.

You can get away with smaller shot, but you will get more cripples. Even more important, the larger shot tends to pass through so you are not having to pick it out.

I carry a garbage bag in my vest and tie it closed every time! There are tons of flees and ticks! Alternatively, if near a dirt road I will just set them ontop of a rock along the road. The bugs will jump off them once they are cold. Then I just drive along the road and collect them. I particularly do this for jacks, because a couple of them in the vest weighs a ton. (I feed jacks to my dog).

.22lr is fine for rabbits. Preferably use a subsonic hollow point. The red dot will work, but 2-7 or 3-9 is far better. It will allow you to place a precision shot instead of center mass. You want to go for the shoulder or head. To me, the hind legs are all that is worth eating. The back straps are a joke, so they go to my gundog too. I even use my .223 when after jacks but run into cottons. I can place it in their head to 100 yards from prone or a good rest, it just takes their head off and the edible portion is still good. Hit any part of the body and its a huge mess.

When populations are high like this year cottons and jacks will both sit in the opening morning and evening. When populations are lower like late season or a dry year, only the smart and educated remain. This is when you need a shotgun cuz you will be jump shooting.

One of the best times to go for rabbits is the first sunny morning after heavy rain or snow. They come out to sit in the sun and dry off.







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